Winter in Durango means two very different ways to play in the snow, and they make a lovely pair. Purgatory Resort sits about 25 miles north of town in the San Juan Mountains, while Chapman Hill is Durango’s own little ski hill, just a few minutes from Main Avenue.

Purgatory is the big day out, with more than 1,600 skiable acres and over 100 trails, from gentle beginner runs to steep expert lines. It’s known for consistent snow, sunny bluebird days after a storm and big views across the San Juans. Off the slopes you’ll find snowcat adventures, a mountain coaster, evening tubing and snowshoe tours, so there’s something for everyone in the group.

Chapman Hill is run by the City of Durango and is perfect for first-timers, families and a quick after-work fix. There’s around 500 feet of vertical with snowmaking, two rope tows, a bumps course and park features, plus lessons for all ages. It opens on weekday afternoons and evenings as well as weekends, and the ice rink next door offers public skating and drop-in hockey.

The ski season usually runs from late November to late March or early April, depending on the snow. Book lessons and rentals ahead over the holidays, check the snow report before you go, then settle in by the fire with tired legs and rosy cheeks.